The girls who surf \w/

In today's world of surfing we have all witnessed the continuation of growth, as the industry continues to thrive globally. From the contests, to the sponsors it has changed quite a bit for not only the men but also for the women. This really has become quite an interest to me as I have viewed thousands of photos from the best photographers through out the 1970's. These photos captured legends like Lynne Boyer, Rell Sunn, Becky Benson, Betty Depolito, Sandy Ordille, Patti Panicica and many others.  Thanks to these ladies surfing has changed.


I have seen the growth through out my surfing life but something happened today when I really took notice as I wandered out to the point in Mexico just to snap a few random shots. As I looked thru the lens I realized the first subject to catch my eye was a girl taking off on the center peak, bottom turning and G L I D I N G with such grace as the wave rushed her to the shore with steady speed.

The camera clicked.


When I turned the camera, I saw even more.  It was the magic of another girl exiting her session of stoke only to then see a  80 year old so inspired by these empowered women that it gave her the glint of excitement in her eye.

Later that night we met some friends who were staying in a nearby resort town.  Their house was full with 4 couples and a total of nine girls ages 5-9 who had only one thing on their minds, they were all excited to take a group surf lesson the next day. Their innocence and honesty were so open to a sport which they were all looking forward to experiencing.

Sometimes you need to be aware of what you see thru the lens as it just might inspire you to see more and express your words into some form of expression. And I’m sure all those young girls got to experience that G L I D E in their own way thanks to the ladies who really laid the foundation as well as the history, and we should not forget.



Always ALOHA!!