The other day I was chatting to Photographer Shirley Rogers when she mentioned one of the images I had just scanned. The image revealed 2guys going right on one big wave. Shirley was so excited to talk about this image as she said everyone remembered that most perfect day ever at Honolua Bay. The 2 guys on the wave were Gerry Lopez and Rick Ianconetti. I then wanted her to write her words about that day and thats when she said "wouldn't it be cool if Gerry could comment as well".
In the past few years I have shared images with Gerry and he has been such a supporter of Lost & Found that I thought I would share the image and see what he would have to say. This is a unique perspective from both PHOTOGRAPHER and SURFER...
SHIRLEY ROGERS //
This shot was taken at Honolua Bay on that EPIC day in the mid 70's that everyone that was there STILL talks about! Waimea Bay on Oahu was closing out and EVERYONE flew to Maui because Honolua Bay was just firing; huge and perfect!. The other surfer in this photo was my friend Rick Ianconetti, that I knew from the North Shore. Rick said that he was buried so deep in the tube at Honolua that Gerry could not see him when he took off. Suddenly they were facing each other in the tube and Jerry reached over and grabbed his hand ( I'm thinking that he did that to stabilize them... what a cool cucumber!) Rick said he thought they might both eat it because they were literally inches apart in the barrel! Gerry then whipped him forward out of the tube and then popped out afterward! I have to say that this was one of the most amazing rides I've EVER seen! I was so blown away when they did it this that I almost didn't get the shot...I wanted to watch!
GERRY LOPEZ //
No leashes, when you lost your board, it was sayonara. It was 1974, I was already living up in Olinda on the other side. This swell was too big for North Shore, Makaha was the only option on Oahu. Terry Fitzgerald was at my house so we went out to the Bay, he'd never seen it that big. Solid 8'-10' sets at the Cave. Ianconetti and I both caught this wave at the Green Light and backdoored the Bowl section side by side. I was up pretty high on the face for backside and since we were so close, I grabbed his hand and gave him the roller derby whip so he could get by me...