Today, my phone started to buzz with information that Surfing Magazine is calling it quits after over 30 years. I had to re-read that headline 10 times before I could begin to process it.
There was Surfer magazine. And there was Surfing magazine. I liked them both, but as a kid, I felt that Surfing had the real rebels. I was 12 years old, living in L.A., when I got my first skateboard. By 14, all I thought about was, how can I get to the beach? From boogie boarding to that first rotten single-fin with the bungee leash that would take your head off, I remember racing to my room to go through the latest issue of Surfing Magazine. I tore out pages and posted them on my bedroom walls. It was the mid 1970's, and regardless of what was taking place in the country, all I saw was the ocean blue photographed in ways that seemed impossible.
The names of MERKEL, CHANG, BARBOUR, TROUT, ROGERS, KAMPION, GILIOVOCH and the Legendary FLAME were the names I saw year after year, who were actually living the surfing dream that inspired stoke in us all. They sat for hours, days, months, and years photographing our heroes, the barrels we chased, the aloha we craved, one 35mm frame at a time. This wasn't the days of 30fps, 6fps, 4k. These were the guys with a Century 650mm lens.
In today’s digital world, millions of images have been backed up to hard-drives with cables we can't find or old firewire plugs that are no longer available on our new 5K Retina displays. Technology changes at such a rapid pace that we don't think to back things up, which makes me think: in this digital world, have we lost a decade of photography? Technically speaking, photography has come a long way. But USBs and digital slideshows don’t hold a candle to the feeling of viewing a 35mm slide on your lightbox. Digital can get lost, but as LOST & FOUND has proven, slides and the memories they capture, can live forever. From Volume One and beyond, I vow to keep SURFING alive.