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photo of the day

Here is a shot from 1973. Lightning bolt speed blur

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Photo of the Day

Here is a shot for the girls. I came across this shot and really think the perspective is great as it captures style.

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Photo of the day

Great shot from the Hawaiian Tropic contest. The perspective of this shot captures it all. From the competitors to the winner as Buzzy Kerbox and Ian Cairns share the moment.

1979.

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Photo of the Day

In May of 1979 it seems like Michael Ho was on a mission as proofsheet #162 captures him charging.

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Photo of the day

Well after a rough week of receiving news from friends on the east coast of what hurricane Sandy had left behind I am back to the scanning. Here is a shot of PT & young Cheyne Horan as he celebrates his win.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY


Well, as promised here is the new era. 1979. A year when some people thought that the car called the Pacer was cool. Really? But also a year as not only surfing but skateboarding was exploding as well. We rode pools, walls, anything that we could shred and surfing started doing the same as well. Were we angry or were we just looking to be different?

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

As the films winds down its tour at festivals thats when the opening of the years and scanning continues. I've only seen about 3% and am looking forward to sharing history. For those who didn't have a chance to see the film I will have DVD's avail for the holidays.


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PHOTO OF THE DAY



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A young MR on a lightning bolt. This was the guy that gave so many of us inspiration.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I came across a great sequence of Gerry today. Here is an amazing shot.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Tomorrow night we will be showing the prints from the show at Aaron Chang's Gallery in LA at the Mirror Gallery in Downtown LA. But in the meantime here is Here is a shot of Rory hitting it hard with speed, force & power.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A PHOTO"S STORY
by Gerry Lopez

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  






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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Every winter is another year as the swells approach the north shore. With that stories and memories have been captured for years giving us all the stoke and dreams to make things a reality. Here is a great shot from the early 70's as a building swell is approaching. Let the stories continue for generations to come.



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Back the there were no leashes. Just one fin & pure heart. Jock Sutherland said "Everyone had to be a good swimmer and sometimes they would take food in the water like an apple or orange since we were having 4-5 hour sessions."

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new art from Chris Robb

Chris has been a surfer/artist for years and his latest work is proving he is in his groove.



1978 sheets 0026-0030





1978 sheets 0021-0025





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