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Well, Its been a while since I have had time to sit down and contribute to the blog. But tonight I thought I would make time. It has been an amazing journey while I still gather stories but came across tonights image and after listening to a story about Shaun Tomson from Photographer Shirley Rogers, I had to post it. Here is young Shaun on the North Shore.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Happy New Year to all. Here is our first posting of the year. The drop.
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Photo of The Day

The year is coming to an end and I wish everyone a Happy New Year. Here is photo of the day.

LEGENDS.
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PHOTO OF THE DAY

HAPPY HOLIDAY!
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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Photo of the Day
Happy Holidays!
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Photo of the Day

The work of a young legend 1971 Roll4. The beginning of Dan Merkel.

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PHOTO SEQ/ GERRY AT PIPE

Here are Gerry's words on surfing PIPE

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  

-Gerry










Photo of the Day

CLASSIC

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Here is a classic contest shot of Gerry from 1974. As gerry has said to me "Its all about the pictures that tell the stories"

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DVD AVAILABLE at
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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Photo of the day!!
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Photo of the Day

Photo of the Day
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Photo of the Day

Here is a great LARRY BERTLEMANN Sequence
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photo of the day

Annual 1973
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photo of the day

Here is a shot from 1973. Lightning bolt speed blur

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Photo of The Day

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Photo of the Day

This photo speaks more then words can describe. LEGEND

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Photo of the day

I started scanning back to 1973 and have discovered gems like this one. Its been amazing to see 1979 for the past few weeks then to jump back as you see no leashes (legropes) and killer style on single fins.

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Photo of the Day


Bronzed Aussies


Formed in Australia in 1976, the Bronzed Aussies were surfing's first commercial ambassadors in the predawn era of professionalism. The brainchild of Sydney Daily Mirror journalist Mike Hurst and three of Oz's top pros at the time, Mark Warren, Ian "Kanga" Cairns and pink fetishist Peter Townend (nee "PT"), the group took their name from an old adage for sun-baked beach boys and their inspiration from the '60s cadre of Aussie tennis players -- Rod Laver, Roy Emerson, John Newcombe -- who'd barnstormed that sport, raising both the financial stakes and media awareness tenfold in the process.

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Photo of the Day

Thanksgiving is a day where you give to others and see friends and family. In the 1970's Surfer Bobby Owen's parents would host the holiday dinner at there house above Sunset for surfer's who couldn't go home. It created a lot of memories for so many people as turkey's came out of the oven.

So share your holiday with friends & family or even just give to someone in need.

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Photo of the Day

Here is a shot for the girls. I came across this shot and really think the perspective is great as it captures style.

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Photo of the Day

Last night I edited a little clip with my interview with Photographer Jim Russi. As Jim explains how Dan Merkel helped him out and showed him the ropes of the North Shore. Jim arrived to the North Shore in the late 70's and has been there ever since capturing amazing images for over 30 years. Therefore the photo posted today is a Merkel shot. aka Man Mountain.

Here is Russi on Merkel.
https://vimeo.com/channels/lostandfoundsurfing/53657557

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PHOTOS OF THE DAY

Last month I was contacted by FLUX Hawaii about these images being reunited with some of the Surfer's. After making the film I hosted a dinner for them all at Duncan Campbell's place and gave them prints of themselves. Flux did a write up and did a photoshoot of they guys with there prints in front of the spots that the photos were taken. Sharing has been the most important thing about this project as well as allowing everyone the respect deserved. Here are Button's Jock Sutherland & Larry Bertlemann all with smiles.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

PHOTO OF THE DAY
NOV 14. 2012

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Photo of the day

Great shot from the Hawaiian Tropic contest. The perspective of this shot captures it all. From the competitors to the winner as Buzzy Kerbox and Ian Cairns share the moment.

1979.

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Thanks for the AMAZING Support

I received this email this morning. This is what it TRULY is all about!

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What an amazing project you put together.  I am student of the old timers and have loved reading/listening to the stories of surfers tell about how it started.  I remember not many decades ago when I would climb a snow covered hill, strap on a wooden board with bungee cords and ride soft luscious powder.  We called it snurfing… and now it's what everyone knows as snowboarding.  Not quite the same romantic beginnings of surf, but I understand the importance of capturing that time, that moment. Only a few of us will remember those early days.

Anyways… I'm super bummed to have missed your picture screening in Mill Valley.. believe it or not, I was at the Opera seeing Moby Dick (terrible) rather than at the film festival.   I also missed you in Honolulu where I live most of the time.  I think you are done screening the film right?  Next step is DVD?

You put a big smile on my face as I watched your trailer and realized someone was capturing these stories.  I had an idea many years ago that someone needed to capture the stories of all the beach boys in Waikiki… they were/are at the core of the Hawaii surf lore and many of them are quietly passing away.  These are not the big name surfers we all hear about, but the true local surfers that never made it on magazines or were shot by photographers.  These old guys have great stories and give a perspective on the birth of surfing in Hawaii unlike any other.  Maybe a future project for you or maybe a film student?

aloha,

carnet


Photo of the Day

In May of 1979 it seems like Michael Ho was on a mission as proofsheet #162 captures him charging.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Michael Ho 1979. It looks like this image was shot during the Hawaiian Tropic Contest where Buzzy won and Ian came in 2nd.

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Photo of the day

Well, the election is over and we can all move on. Im currently doing a project with Thomas Campbell who is hosting an event for his New Book signing party at Mollusk/SF. Good vibes, music, art and get his book. Its amazing. Here is todays photo!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Ive been slammed with work and apologize for missing some postings this week. Anyways. here is todays photo. A classic portrait of Louis Ferreira
1979

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

OCT 23,2012
1979

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A continuation of 1979. The film is done. DVD's being pressed and images continuing to rekindle stories. It truly has been a good thing for all to share. Here is todays shot as the face of the surfer is saying push it. In 1979 Im starting to see the Evolution.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A young MR on a lightning bolt. This was the guy that gave so many of us inspiration.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I came across a great sequence of Gerry today. Here is an amazing shot.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I have only looked at about 1-2% of this collection and have been in aww of the 70's images. But the other night I randomly ventured into the 80's. Here is some 1980's love. More to come soon.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

This morning on my run so many thoughts swirl thru your head as I ponder about this collection of work. Everyday I post and image and see the memories of words added daily. I am so greatful that these images were found. It has allowed me to tell stories and share. Imagine if these boxes were never found or destroyed. History would be gone. So here is todays photo that to says history as to onlookers are in aw of Gerry Lopez and his board.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

When you see this photo it captures a time that has come full circle. Its amazing how HISTORY can repeat itself or actually not.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Well after an amazing road trip with my son Im back in the chair this morning putting up the photo of the day. One word.. STYLIN.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

He was born on August 7, 1955 and has a laugh that outs a smile on your face. He is also known as the "rubberman". Yes, Larry Bertlemann has inspired so many of us with his surfing and today is his Birthday so I thought it would be great to acknowledge him. I was honored to spend time with him while making "Lost & Found"


Happy Birthday Larry!!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A quiver of magic.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY



During the filming of 'Big Wednesday,' both John Milius and Jan Michael Vincent did quite a bit of surfing on location in El Salvadore, at Coho Point and at Sunset Beach.  By the end of the filming, they were in probably the best surfing shape of their lives. In this picture, we are standing on the beach at Sunset and I'm guess I'm pointing out some of the intricacies of this complex spot.  This was before surf leashes so the most important thing would be as much information as possible about how to swim in after losing a surfboard in the line-up and not losing it completely in the rip currents in the channel afterwards. By the expressions on their faces, I must have been making an impression because they sure look like they're paying complete attention..... Gerry Lopez








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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Even as the film is released and becoming more available for all to see the postings will continue as they give everyone important history to enjoy and re live. This could just be the beginning of something new to come.


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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I woke up this morning as today is the day that "Lost & Found" will be available thru The Surf Network starting today. I also woke up with these great words from Randy Rarrick. "Hi Doug,Loved the film!  Really made me realize what an important time in history that whole era was!  It also made me realize how lucky I was to have been a part of it all!"

I think it proves that you have to give to receive.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Here is a classic shot of Shaun Tomson and his quiver on the North Shore. The year was 1975 and photographer Dan Merkel was capturing history. Dan today just had a recent cover shot of Dane proving that he still has an amazing eye.



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Just wanted to say THANKS to Gerry for writing the great story about the photo yesterday. His words were unique as he told us in his words about the PIPE. Tonight "Lost & Found" has one more screening in Hawaii at the Doris Duke Theatre. I spoke with Randy Rarrick and he is going tonight to check it out. Here is a photo of Hakman in the shaping room checking out his new board.




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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A PHOTO"S STORY
by Gerry Lopez

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  






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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I know the definition of quiver means something else then what this image displays. But I would say here is a line up of some magic boards all ridden by legends.

amazing.


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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Sometimes I sit down and I begin to write but never quite know how to express myself. So tonight I grabbed the dog and escaped to nature. As the wind quietly blew I could see what I needed to say as it cleared the air.



SURFING. What is it? It gives us so much. It allows us to share and express ourselves with authority allowing us to be seeing in way we are not seen on shore. These are the things that make me realize how important it is to SHARE. As I posted a small thing about Rory Russell shaping boards and selling history I realized how important it is. Yes there were many others who passed this STOKE along and have moved on from this life. But its the ones who remain that we must listen to their stories and support them. Life is fast and sometimes is taken from us to early. So lets support history before the concrete dries on the walk of fame.




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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Every winter is another year as the swells approach the north shore. With that stories and memories have been captured for years giving us all the stoke and dreams to make things a reality. Here is a great shot from the early 70's as a building swell is approaching. Let the stories continue for generations to come.



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A collection of stories from the film.

Here is a collection of stories from "Lost & Found" These will be up on the new site and linked to images for everyone to finally see.

enjoy.

http://vimeo.com/lostandfoundcollection/videos

Lost & Found headed to Australia to Yallin Up Film Fest

Woke up this morning to a great email finding out that "lost and Found" is heading to OZ! We are also getting ready for Kona and the Northshore film fests in Dec.

Here are the showings to date.

NY Surf Film Fest 2011
British Surf Film Fest 2011
XDance Premiere 2011
Carmel Film Festival 2011
California Surf Film Fest 2011
Kona Surf Film Fest 2011
North Shore Film Fest 2011

We are also up for the 2011 Surfer Poll Award as well!!!

1978 sheets 0026-0030





1978 sheets 0021-0025 HAPPY HALLOWEEN

 

Yes. Today is Halloween! As the water starts to chill, the swells arrive as winter approaches us all.






1978 sheets 0021-0025





Beautiful BUTTONS Sequence






California Surf Festival PHOTOS by Darby walker Curts














more from 1978








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