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Photo of the DAY!!

Some Skating LOVE
HIstory and Stories will never end. They will be preserved for the next generations to come.

Lost & Found.

Thanks for the AMAZING Support

I received this email this morning. This is what it TRULY is all about!

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What an amazing project you put together.  I am student of the old timers and have loved reading/listening to the stories of surfers tell about how it started.  I remember not many decades ago when I would climb a snow covered hill, strap on a wooden board with bungee cords and ride soft luscious powder.  We called it snurfing… and now it's what everyone knows as snowboarding.  Not quite the same romantic beginnings of surf, but I understand the importance of capturing that time, that moment. Only a few of us will remember those early days.

Anyways… I'm super bummed to have missed your picture screening in Mill Valley.. believe it or not, I was at the Opera seeing Moby Dick (terrible) rather than at the film festival.   I also missed you in Honolulu where I live most of the time.  I think you are done screening the film right?  Next step is DVD?

You put a big smile on my face as I watched your trailer and realized someone was capturing these stories.  I had an idea many years ago that someone needed to capture the stories of all the beach boys in Waikiki… they were/are at the core of the Hawaii surf lore and many of them are quietly passing away.  These are not the big name surfers we all hear about, but the true local surfers that never made it on magazines or were shot by photographers.  These old guys have great stories and give a perspective on the birth of surfing in Hawaii unlike any other.  Maybe a future project for you or maybe a film student?




Great shot of George Greenough.

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I know the definition of quiver means something else then what this image displays. But I would say here is a line up of some magic boards all ridden by legends.


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Sometimes I sit down and I begin to write but never quite know how to express myself. So tonight I grabbed the dog and escaped to nature. As the wind quietly blew I could see what I needed to say as it cleared the air.

SURFING. What is it? It gives us so much. It allows us to share and express ourselves with authority allowing us to be seeing in way we are not seen on shore. These are the things that make me realize how important it is to SHARE. As I posted a small thing about Rory Russell shaping boards and selling history I realized how important it is. Yes there were many others who passed this STOKE along and have moved on from this life. But its the ones who remain that we must listen to their stories and support them. Life is fast and sometimes is taken from us to early. So lets support history before the concrete dries on the walk of fame.

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1978 sheets 0021-0025 HAPPY HALLOWEEN


Yes. Today is Halloween! As the water starts to chill, the swells arrive as winter approaches us all.

1978 sheets 0011-0015

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