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PHOTO OF THE DAY

The beauty never changes as todays photo gives us an amazing perspectuve from the fall to the kneepaddle in the foreground. It still captures a moment where we all share the stoke. Also a little shout out to Kelly Slater for his perfect scoring 10 yesterday in Fiji. The guy still amazes us all.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Happy New Year to all. Here is our first posting of the year. The drop.
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Photo of The Day

The year is coming to an end and I wish everyone a Happy New Year. Here is photo of the day.

LEGENDS.
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PHOTO OF THE DAY

HAPPY HOLIDAY!
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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Photo of the Day
Happy Holidays!
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Photo of the Day

Photo of the Day.
Classic Rory Russell & Alan Sarlo, Not sure who's in the car.

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Photo of the Day

The work of a young legend 1971 Roll4. The beginning of Dan Merkel.

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PHOTO SEQ/ GERRY AT PIPE

Here are Gerry's words on surfing PIPE

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  

-Gerry










Photo of the Day

CLASSIC

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Photo of the day!!
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Photo of the Day

Photo of the Day
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Photo of the Day

Here is a great LARRY BERTLEMANN Sequence
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photo of the day

Annual 1973
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photo of the day

Here is a shot from 1973. Lightning bolt speed blur

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Photo of The Day

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Photo of the Day

This photo speaks more then words can describe. LEGEND

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Photo of the day

I started scanning back to 1973 and have discovered gems like this one. Its been amazing to see 1979 for the past few weeks then to jump back as you see no leashes (legropes) and killer style on single fins.

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Photo of the Day


Bronzed Aussies


Formed in Australia in 1976, the Bronzed Aussies were surfing's first commercial ambassadors in the predawn era of professionalism. The brainchild of Sydney Daily Mirror journalist Mike Hurst and three of Oz's top pros at the time, Mark Warren, Ian "Kanga" Cairns and pink fetishist Peter Townend (nee "PT"), the group took their name from an old adage for sun-baked beach boys and their inspiration from the '60s cadre of Aussie tennis players -- Rod Laver, Roy Emerson, John Newcombe -- who'd barnstormed that sport, raising both the financial stakes and media awareness tenfold in the process.

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photo of the day

Thanksgiving:
A time where we give, share and enjoy friends & family. Give a hug, make a call. Life is special.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING.

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Photo of the Day

Thanksgiving is a day where you give to others and see friends and family. In the 1970's Surfer Bobby Owen's parents would host the holiday dinner at there house above Sunset for surfer's who couldn't go home. It created a lot of memories for so many people as turkey's came out of the oven.

So share your holiday with friends & family or even just give to someone in need.

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Photo of the Day

Here is a shot for the girls. I came across this shot and really think the perspective is great as it captures style.

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Photo of the Day

Last night I edited a little clip with my interview with Photographer Jim Russi. As Jim explains how Dan Merkel helped him out and showed him the ropes of the North Shore. Jim arrived to the North Shore in the late 70's and has been there ever since capturing amazing images for over 30 years. Therefore the photo posted today is a Merkel shot. aka Man Mountain.

Here is Russi on Merkel.
https://vimeo.com/channels/lostandfoundsurfing/53657557

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PHOTOS OF THE DAY

Last month I was contacted by FLUX Hawaii about these images being reunited with some of the Surfer's. After making the film I hosted a dinner for them all at Duncan Campbell's place and gave them prints of themselves. Flux did a write up and did a photoshoot of they guys with there prints in front of the spots that the photos were taken. Sharing has been the most important thing about this project as well as allowing everyone the respect deserved. Here are Button's Jock Sutherland & Larry Bertlemann all with smiles.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

PHOTO OF THE DAY
NOV 14. 2012

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Some afternoon LOVE

Just finished scanning May of 1979 and had to share this beauty.

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Photo of the day

Great shot from the Hawaiian Tropic contest. The perspective of this shot captures it all. From the competitors to the winner as Buzzy Kerbox and Ian Cairns share the moment.

1979.

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Thanks for the AMAZING Support

I received this email this morning. This is what it TRULY is all about!

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What an amazing project you put together.  I am student of the old timers and have loved reading/listening to the stories of surfers tell about how it started.  I remember not many decades ago when I would climb a snow covered hill, strap on a wooden board with bungee cords and ride soft luscious powder.  We called it snurfing… and now it's what everyone knows as snowboarding.  Not quite the same romantic beginnings of surf, but I understand the importance of capturing that time, that moment. Only a few of us will remember those early days.

Anyways… I'm super bummed to have missed your picture screening in Mill Valley.. believe it or not, I was at the Opera seeing Moby Dick (terrible) rather than at the film festival.   I also missed you in Honolulu where I live most of the time.  I think you are done screening the film right?  Next step is DVD?

You put a big smile on my face as I watched your trailer and realized someone was capturing these stories.  I had an idea many years ago that someone needed to capture the stories of all the beach boys in Waikiki… they were/are at the core of the Hawaii surf lore and many of them are quietly passing away.  These are not the big name surfers we all hear about, but the true local surfers that never made it on magazines or were shot by photographers.  These old guys have great stories and give a perspective on the birth of surfing in Hawaii unlike any other.  Maybe a future project for you or maybe a film student?

aloha,

carnet


PHOTO OF THE DAY

Michael Ho 1979. It looks like this image was shot during the Hawaiian Tropic Contest where Buzzy won and Ian came in 2nd.

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Photo of the day

Well, the election is over and we can all move on. Im currently doing a project with Thomas Campbell who is hosting an event for his New Book signing party at Mollusk/SF. Good vibes, music, art and get his book. Its amazing. Here is todays photo!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Ive been slammed with work and apologize for missing some postings this week. Anyways. here is todays photo. A classic portrait of Louis Ferreira
1979

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

OCT 23,2012
1979

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A continuation of 1979. The film is done. DVD's being pressed and images continuing to rekindle stories. It truly has been a good thing for all to share. Here is todays shot as the face of the surfer is saying push it. In 1979 Im starting to see the Evolution.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Yesterday's first posting of 1979 reunited Photographer Lance Trout with an image he captured of Sunset Beach. Well, here we go with the 2nd image of '79. Lets see what happens.

The Katin PRO Team Challenge

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YESTERDAYS PHOTO

Yes this image was posted yesterday. But Photographer Lance Trout confirmed that he had take this shot in 1979. Here is what Lance had to say about that day he captured this image.


Photographer Lance Trout
This image was posted yesterday as part of the “Lost & Found Collection” and by discovery Lance Trout was the Photographer who captured the shot in 1979. I reached out to Lance yesterday and here are his words of that special day on the North Shore:

If I am correct . That day was a little too big for Pipeline , and I lived across the street from Sunset , so I parked myself there for several hours . I used the SURFING Magazine 1000mm lens on my Nikon body , and was stationed on the west side of the Sunset Beach bay . You have a very pulled perspective there , but sometimes the elements flow together . Loved that perspective , yet I knew it lacked punch at most of the time .
Still , it was neat to see the heavy swell interact on the reef , and the deep channel ….

http://lancetroutphotographs.com/LanceTroutPhotographs/WELCOME_2.html

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PHOTO OF THE DAY


Well, as promised here is the new era. 1979. A year when some people thought that the car called the Pacer was cool. Really? But also a year as not only surfing but skateboarding was exploding as well. We rode pools, walls, anything that we could shred and surfing started doing the same as well. Were we angry or were we just looking to be different?

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A new era

I just got home after being away working for the past month and have decided its time to hit the scanner. As I opened the bin I grabbed the first envelope that caught my eye. The year 1979. I was 14 years old and was frothing every month for the next issue of either surfing or surfer mag. I spent 2 hours tonight scanning about 20 images seeing surfing making a change from the previous images. It was still about style yet you start to see the impatience as now this new crew want to throw the board around. Im looking forward to entering this era as we start to see the evolution of the 80's.

Lost & Found II?

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A Buttons Sequence

Here is a great seq from proofsheet #606. After today I think its best to go back to the beginning and post proofsheet and scans so people can identify properly/

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I love when I come across these candid classic shots like this one of David Nuuhiwa

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

One word. Nice Drop in.
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PHOTO OF THE DAY



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A young MR on a lightning bolt. This was the guy that gave so many of us inspiration.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I came across a great sequence of Gerry today. Here is an amazing shot.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

This morning on my run so many thoughts swirl thru your head as I ponder about this collection of work. Everyday I post and image and see the memories of words added daily. I am so greatful that these images were found. It has allowed me to tell stories and share. Imagine if these boxes were never found or destroyed. History would be gone. So here is todays photo that to says history as to onlookers are in aw of Gerry Lopez and his board.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

When you see this photo it captures a time that has come full circle. Its amazing how HISTORY can repeat itself or actually not.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Well after an amazing road trip with my son Im back in the chair this morning putting up the photo of the day. One word.. STYLIN.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Tomorrow night we will be showing the prints from the show at Aaron Chang's Gallery in LA at the Mirror Gallery in Downtown LA. But in the meantime here is Here is a shot of Rory hitting it hard with speed, force & power.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

He was born on August 7, 1955 and has a laugh that outs a smile on your face. He is also known as the "rubberman". Yes, Larry Bertlemann has inspired so many of us with his surfing and today is his Birthday so I thought it would be great to acknowledge him. I was honored to spend time with him while making "Lost & Found"


Happy Birthday Larry!!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A quiver of magic.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY



During the filming of 'Big Wednesday,' both John Milius and Jan Michael Vincent did quite a bit of surfing on location in El Salvadore, at Coho Point and at Sunset Beach.  By the end of the filming, they were in probably the best surfing shape of their lives. In this picture, we are standing on the beach at Sunset and I'm guess I'm pointing out some of the intricacies of this complex spot.  This was before surf leashes so the most important thing would be as much information as possible about how to swim in after losing a surfboard in the line-up and not losing it completely in the rip currents in the channel afterwards. By the expressions on their faces, I must have been making an impression because they sure look like they're paying complete attention..... Gerry Lopez








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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Even as the film is released and becoming more available for all to see the postings will continue as they give everyone important history to enjoy and re live. This could just be the beginning of something new to come.


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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I woke up this morning as today is the day that "Lost & Found" will be available thru The Surf Network starting today. I also woke up with these great words from Randy Rarrick. "Hi Doug,Loved the film!  Really made me realize what an important time in history that whole era was!  It also made me realize how lucky I was to have been a part of it all!"

I think it proves that you have to give to receive.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Here is a classic shot of Shaun Tomson and his quiver on the North Shore. The year was 1975 and photographer Dan Merkel was capturing history. Dan today just had a recent cover shot of Dane proving that he still has an amazing eye.



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Just wanted to say THANKS to Gerry for writing the great story about the photo yesterday. His words were unique as he told us in his words about the PIPE. Tonight "Lost & Found" has one more screening in Hawaii at the Doris Duke Theatre. I spoke with Randy Rarrick and he is going tonight to check it out. Here is a photo of Hakman in the shaping room checking out his new board.




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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A PHOTO"S STORY
by Gerry Lopez

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  






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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I know the definition of quiver means something else then what this image displays. But I would say here is a line up of some magic boards all ridden by legends.

amazing.


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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Sometimes I sit down and I begin to write but never quite know how to express myself. So tonight I grabbed the dog and escaped to nature. As the wind quietly blew I could see what I needed to say as it cleared the air.



SURFING. What is it? It gives us so much. It allows us to share and express ourselves with authority allowing us to be seeing in way we are not seen on shore. These are the things that make me realize how important it is to SHARE. As I posted a small thing about Rory Russell shaping boards and selling history I realized how important it is. Yes there were many others who passed this STOKE along and have moved on from this life. But its the ones who remain that we must listen to their stories and support them. Life is fast and sometimes is taken from us to early. So lets support history before the concrete dries on the walk of fame.




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PHOTO OF THE DAY


1975.

History

I first me Rory Russell while making "Lost & Found". As soon as we met I shared images with him and we had a connection. Rory grew up on the north shore surfing the PIPE and having guys like Gerry Lopez & Jock Sutherland taking him under their wing. Today Rory still share the same STOKE as he finds himself back in the shaping room. He phoned me tonight as he was excited about just finishing 2 Limited Edition black "Pipeliners" number 001 & 002. Contact us thru the site and we will put you in touch with Rory.

I guess history does repeat itself after all.



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A few days ago I received a batch of negs from a guy in Alabama who spent time on the North Shore in the 70's

unknown surfer


and then received 2 more images from a guy who was at the Offshore contest in 1979.
Shaun Tomson
Buttons!!


 It's been amazing to see the STOKE from others and the sharing of stories. This is what I believed in the moment I found the images. So with that said, here is a true classic.



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Every winter is another year as the swells approach the north shore. With that stories and memories have been captured for years giving us all the stoke and dreams to make things a reality. Here is a great shot from the early 70's as a building swell is approaching. Let the stories continue for generations to come.



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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Back the there were no leashes. Just one fin & pure heart. Jock Sutherland said "Everyone had to be a good swimmer and sometimes they would take food in the water like an apple or orange since we were having 4-5 hour sessions."

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Here is a classic shot that I shared withe Buttons during our interview. It was taken on the south shore as Buttons lives in the middle of the frame surrounded by the crew. Classic time. boards & people.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

The year was 1978 as Michael Ho is standing here with his winning trophy. Good times.

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Thanks North Shore Film Fest

Last night was our screening on the North Shore at Turtle Bay. It was an amazing turnout  as people packed the room to see the film. It was even more of an honor when Jock Sutherland, Duncan Campbell, Dan Merkel, Larry Bertlemann & Buttons all were there to take the stage and enjoy the moment. Bt there was a bigger surprise when Reno appeared to see the film and join the stage as well.




A collection of stories from the film.

Here is a collection of stories from "Lost & Found" These will be up on the new site and linked to images for everyone to finally see.

enjoy.

http://vimeo.com/lostandfoundcollection/videos

Lost & Found headed to Australia to Yallin Up Film Fest

Woke up this morning to a great email finding out that "lost and Found" is heading to OZ! We are also getting ready for Kona and the Northshore film fests in Dec.

Here are the showings to date.

NY Surf Film Fest 2011
British Surf Film Fest 2011
XDance Premiere 2011
Carmel Film Festival 2011
California Surf Film Fest 2011
Kona Surf Film Fest 2011
North Shore Film Fest 2011

We are also up for the 2011 Surfer Poll Award as well!!!

Lost & Found Heading to KONA!!

1978 sheets 0026-0030





Thanks to SURFER MAGAZINE

I met Brendon Thomas a few months ago when he contacted me about an interview on my story. I just wanted to say thanks to all the people involved in making this part of the Surfer Dec Issue. It has been a labor of love project over many years and I know I did the right thing to make this film as it has touched many who have seen it.

also thanks to Erin Kunkel photographer who came out to my house to shoot me.















erin kunkel PHOTOGRAPHY
food // travel // lifestyle images
represented by 1 Notion: 858.883.1000
415.867.3215


D


1978 sheets 0021-0025 HAPPY HALLOWEEN

 

Yes. Today is Halloween! As the water starts to chill, the swells arrive as winter approaches us all.






1978 sheets 0021-0025





Beautiful BUTTONS Sequence






California Surf Festival PHOTOS by Darby walker Curts














1978 sheets 0011-0015





1978 sheets 0006-0010





Some classic Larry Bertlemann aka The Rubberman








more from 1978








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