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I met Brendon Thomas a few months ago when he contacted me about an interview on my story. I just wanted to say thanks to all the people involved in making this part of the Surfer Dec Issue. It has been a labor of love project over many years and I know I did the right thing to make this film as it has touched many who have seen it.

also thanks to Erin Kunkel photographer who came out to my house to shoot me.

erin kunkel PHOTOGRAPHY
food // travel // lifestyle images
represented by 1 Notion: 858.883.1000


1978 sheets 0021-0025 HAPPY HALLOWEEN


Yes. Today is Halloween! As the water starts to chill, the swells arrive as winter approaches us all.

thanks Surfer Magazine & photographer Erin Kunkle

I had a great interview with Brendon Thomas from Surfer Magazine as he let me tell my story. He then sent photographer Erin Kunkle to photograph me in my space.

thanks to all.

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