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by Gerry Lopez

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  

Share & enjoy the ALOHA!!


I know the definition of quiver means something else then what this image displays. But I would say here is a line up of some magic boards all ridden by legends.


Share & enjoy the ALOHA!!


A few days ago I received a batch of negs from a guy in Alabama who spent time on the North Shore in the 70's

unknown surfer

and then received 2 more images from a guy who was at the Offshore contest in 1979.
Shaun Tomson

 It's been amazing to see the STOKE from others and the sharing of stories. This is what I believed in the moment I found the images. So with that said, here is a true classic.

Share & enjoy the ALOHA!!


After a great screening at the Aaron Chang Gallery we have been getting the film ready for distribution so it can be shared by all. Look for "Lost & Found" to be available in the next 30 days. But in the meantime we are back to our PHOTO of the DAY and we still have not even entered into the 80's. So much more to come as well as more stories as the 80's starts to unfold.

Share & enjoy the ALOHA!!

Dan Merkel checking out Backdoor as swell arrives

Dan Merkel is waiting for his moment to strike. Dan is extremely picky about his conditions before pulling out his panoramic camera to capture images on the the North Shore. He has arrived o the North Shore with 100 rolls of film allowing only for 4 images per roll which is a lot different then a Canon 7d or 5d shooting at multiple frames per second. This is what a professional is. This is FILM and Dan should return home with the only PANORAMICS being captured.

In The Shaping Room with Randy Sleigh

I had the opportunity to spend some time yesterday with shaper Randy Sleigh & Rory in the shaping room as Rich was finishing a board. Rich as been shaping since the 1970's and has a reputation of being a man with magic hands.

Thanks North Shore Film Fest

Last night was our screening on the North Shore at Turtle Bay. It was an amazing turnout  as people packed the room to see the film. It was even more of an honor when Jock Sutherland, Duncan Campbell, Dan Merkel, Larry Bertlemann & Buttons all were there to take the stage and enjoy the moment. Bt there was a bigger surprise when Reno appeared to see the film and join the stage as well.

North Shore Dinner with the guys

Last night I hosted a dinner for all the guys in the film. We sat out back of Duncan Campbell's cafe outside as Rory Russell, Jock Sutherland, Buttons & Duncan all shared stories as well as enjoyed hanging out. I gave them all posters as well as made them large format prints of themselves surfing when they were all young.

Tonight the film will be screened and Larry Bertlemann & Dan Merkel will also be joining them al together at Turtle Bay. Should be a memorable evening for all.

Yallin Up in Australia is official

Just got the official program where "Lost & Found" and good friend Pierce Kavanaugh of "Manufacturing Stoke" both have are films playing.

new art from Chris Robb

Chris has been a surfer/artist for years and his latest work is proving he is in his groove.


Thanks to Travis at Surfing Mag for writing the kind words in this months issue on the film!!

Holiday Board/Art

Rory Russell is a legendary surfer from the 1970's who grew up on the North Shore. As a kid growing up all I saw was boards with large lightning  bolts on them on these amazing waves and thats when I knew I wanted to surf. Today Rory lives in Kona and has a surfing school and has started shaping these classic boards again. I spoke with him today to let him know I was coming out to show the film and he said he has 2 boards he is shaping that are not glassed yet and that the buyers will have an opportunity to choose there own colors.

If interested give Rory a call. He's a great guy and you will not regret purchasing an amazing piece of art.


A collection of stories from the film.

Here is a collection of stories from "Lost & Found" These will be up on the new site and linked to images for everyone to finally see.


Lost & Found headed to Australia to Yallin Up Film Fest

Woke up this morning to a great email finding out that "lost and Found" is heading to OZ! We are also getting ready for Kona and the Northshore film fests in Dec.

Here are the showings to date.

NY Surf Film Fest 2011
British Surf Film Fest 2011
XDance Premiere 2011
Carmel Film Festival 2011
California Surf Film Fest 2011
Kona Surf Film Fest 2011
North Shore Film Fest 2011

We are also up for the 2011 Surfer Poll Award as well!!!


Lost & Found Heading to KONA!!


I met Brendon Thomas a few months ago when he contacted me about an interview on my story. I just wanted to say thanks to all the people involved in making this part of the Surfer Dec Issue. It has been a labor of love project over many years and I know I did the right thing to make this film as it has touched many who have seen it.

also thanks to Erin Kunkel photographer who came out to my house to shoot me.

erin kunkel PHOTOGRAPHY
food // travel // lifestyle images
represented by 1 Notion: 858.883.1000


1978 sheets 0021-0025 HAPPY HALLOWEEN


Yes. Today is Halloween! As the water starts to chill, the swells arrive as winter approaches us all.

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